It's true, everybody here is really nice. Even the customs agent who told me I had to go see one of the search guys was smiling when he said it, so much so that I had to ask if he was fucking with me. He wasn't. Apparently the Italians didn't jump through all the right Homeland Security hoops like getting my name spelled right, so I didn't get thoroughly background searched during our 9 hours in the air. So a bored Customs agent had to spend 45 seconds doing that. He was also very nice.
It's too hard to type on this phone, plus I don't have access to all the photos, so our amazing Etna tales will have to wait.
Mary, C totally feels you on the ear thing -- she was miserable on the way in to Philly. We'll try the cup trick on this last RDU leg.